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Repair & Maintenance Log

11/04/16: Acquired game.

11/20/16: New instruction and pricing cards. Installed standard-keyed (751) lock on coin door. Replaced existing Super-Bands with conventional red flipper rubber. Technically I should replace the yellow flipper bats with white. But I kinda like how the yellow goes with the other playfield colors.

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New cards and flipper rubber.

11/20/16: The M and N stationary targets had been reversed (e.g. hitting M would lite N and vice versa). I was warming up the soldering iron before it occurred to me that I only had to swap the targets back to their proper positions.

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M and N targets were reversed.

11/27/16: New legs.

11/27/16: Replaced Gold/Silver stationary target. The old target was round with damaged edges. The game flyer shows a rectangular target. I couldn't find any reference to the part number shown in the manual (D-11584-1). So I ordered something similar looking from Marco. What I got was a little too wide to fit through the playfield opening. Fortunately the target was disassembled and went together with screws instead of rivets. I installed the target blade from the top and assembled the rest of the target components in place. It was tedious, but possible.

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New target assembled in place.

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Old round target and new rectangular target.

12/16: Retrofitting a rotary beacon topper. According to IPDB, export Millionaires were equipped with a rotary beacon topper similar to High Speed or F-14 Tomcat. I have not seen any explanation as to why this feature was not included on domestic games. In fact I never was able to find any technical information regarding the export Millionaire beacon. This project was based on educated guesses I made by studying High Speed and F-14 pictures and schematics.

My only hardware hint to the beacon's existence was a connector and some pre-punched holes in the backbox. But my first step was to determine if my domestic game even had the supporting software. The domestic manual shows a blank space on the solenoid driver table at function 10 (transistor Q9). But "ROTARY BEACON" is displayed for function 10 during the solenoid driver test. So I rigged a temporary test lamp to function 10 and confirmed that the output is driven at various times during game play. Millionaire does not appear to have any game adjustments related to the beacon whereas both High Speed and F-14 have beacon game adjustments.

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My "REV 3" ROMs include supporting software for the rotary beacon topper.

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Five pre-punched holes in the backbox and a four-pin connector located between the sound board and the power supply board.

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The existing four-pin connector.

Based on the arrangement of the pre-punched holes and the four-pin corrector I guessed that the export's electrical arrangement was similar to F-14. The lower four holes are for a relay board and the top hole is for a fuse holder. Two of the connector wires (wht/blu) supply 24 vac from the transformer, one wire (red) supplies +34v solenoid power and the fourth wire (brn/red) is the control wire from function 10 (transistor Q9). I guessed that physical arrangement of the export's single beacon was similar to High Speed.

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F-14 schematic showing relay, fuse, motor and lamp circuitry. My domestic Millionaire has the same four-pin connector except pins 3 and 4 are reversed and my control wire is brn/red corresponding to function 10.

Next I went shopping. I mostly used High Speed as my guide. The reflector is a reproduction part from someone called Tilted Pinball which may be listed on Pinside and/or eBay. The rest of the components were had from Marco under the High Speed or Millionaire categories.

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Gathering supplies.

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Connector parts.

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Connector and wiring.

F-14 pictures show a C-11232-1 relay board. I couldn't find a C-11232-1 or a C-11232 or a C-11232-2. So I bought a Great Lakes Modular relay snubber board and removed all the snubber components.

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Original relay board schematic.

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Great Lakes Modular relay snubber board.

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Snubber components removed.

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Circuit board mounting standoffs.

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Wiring, relay board and fuse holder installed using the five pre-punched holes between the sound board and power supply board.

The triple dome/lamp arrangement of F-14 calls for a 4 amp slow-blow fuse. The single dome/lamp arrangement of High Speed calls for a 1 amp slow-blow fuse. My actual current measurements were about 1 amp for the 1683 lamp and about .2 amps for the motor. But so far the 1 amp slow-blow fuse has held.

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1 amp slow-blow fuse.

Technically I should have mounted the beacon mechanism directly into the backbox like High Speed. But I really had no interest in cutting a hole through the top of my backbox. Plus I may have had to relocate the backbox lock. So I made a housing from ¾" plywood. I used a router to round the corners and make a shallow recess for the dome. I worked it over with spot putty and primer and then sprayed it with some hardware store navy blue. The color match was pretty close.

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Inside the beacon mechanism housing.

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Beacon mechanism with 1683 lamp installed.

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Beacon dome in place.

Export Millionaires appear to have an offset backbox lock. My lock is centered and was in the way. So I mounted the beacon housing to the backbox with a pair of small hinges such that I can lift the housing to get at the key.

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Housing mounted to the backbox.

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Backbox key access.

I bought a clear beacon dome based on pictures shown on IPDB. The dome has an insert with a pattern of what looks like yellow Mercury dimes on a black background. I don't know what sort of material the original art was printed on. Paper? Decal? Transparency? I also don't know what an ancient dime has to do with being a 1980s millionaire, but that's what I set out to reproduce. Photo editing isn't my thing, but I gave it a shot starting with a picture I found on IPDB. I found only one coin that wasn't at least partially obscured. I squashed the original picture to try and make the coin look a little more round. Then I chopped it out and pasted a bunch of copies on a black background. The full image is below and should be printed to a width of 17". When it's up on top of the game and 4' from the eye, it doesn't look entirely terrible.

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Beacon art. Click picture for full size image and print to a width of 17".

I took the image to Staples and had it printed on regular 11" x 17" copy paper. The beacon dome has a slight conical shape so I trimmed the top of my image to a shallow arc. I braced the ends of a flexible piece of metal (a yard stick would work too) between two screws, pushed the middle into the image and cut and an arc with a razor blade. Next I put the paper in the dome and taped the ends together. The bottom edge was trimmed in place with a razor.

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Image printed on 11" x 17" copy paper.

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Cutting an arc across the top edge of the image.

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Paper in place and ready to trim the bottom edge.

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Finished.

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Finished.

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--EXTERNAL LINK-- Click image to view a brief YouTube video of the finished beacon.

03/11/17: Drop target opto interrupter board repair. My first or lower drop target was no longer registering. I didn't find much of any information on the target's C-11319 opto interrupter circuit board so I was on my own for troubleshooting. I didn't have an IR sensor card and my digital camera didn't pick up any IR emissions one way or another. Here's what I did...

First I doodled my own schematic since I couldn't find one.

I measured about 1 volt across the transmitter. That seemed like an okay value.

I measured about 1 volt across the receiver while open to the transmitter. That value seemed okay.

I measured about 12 volts across the receiver when blocked. That value seemed okay.

Next I shorted the column terminal C to the banded side of diode D1 which triggered a switch edge. That seemed encouraging.

That eliminated about everything but the transistor Q1. I tested the transistor and it looked to have an open emitter.

A closer look at the board shows that the transistor Q1 had already been replaced once before. So now I'm waiting for an order of transistors. I also ordered some extra opto interrupters. I also ordered some extra E-clip board retainers because they're easily lost (like I lost the one for this board).

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My C-11319 opto interrupter board schematic.

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Component side of the C-11319 opto interrupter board.

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Solder side of the C-11319. Note that Q1 is not original.

A new 2N3906 did the trick. There's supposed to be a blob of silicone between the board and transistor to help protect the transistor from board vibration. The previous repair person did not replace the silicone and the old transistor emitter lead broke. I added a small dab of silicone. I wanted some level of protection without making the new transistor impossible to replace in the future.

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A new 2N3906 with a small dab of silicone.

Notes on history and compatibility... Millionaire may have been the first game to replace drop target switches with opto interrupters and, accordingly, the first game with the C-11319 opto interrupter board. This board appears to have been quickly superseded by the C-11903-R which is physically longer and has a connector, but may be backwards compatible with the C-11319. As of 2017 the C-11319 does not appear to have been reproduced. However, Great Lakes Modular does make a replacement for the C-11903-R.

03/17/17: The left eject hole mechanism had become a bit wobbly because the pivot pin broke loose from the mounting bracket. I couldn't find an A-6950-R, but I used an A-8268 which appears to be the same thing.

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Pivot pin broke loose from the mounting bracket (green arrow).

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Replacement part A-8268.

09/08/17: I replaced both lower flippers after the right bat cracked at the shaft and broke free from the shaft. I stuck with yellow because I like how the color goes with the rest of the playfield. The flyer shows white.

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New lower flipper bats.